The Cliff Whisperer

Sebastián Álvarez inhabits his own world which is anything but quiet: he can hear his heart beating and feel his deep breaths, and he listens carefully to the scrapes of his climbing shoes in the reddish-white chalk. He twists his hips and pushes off powerfully with his right leg. His upper arm muscles clearly stand out under his grey shirt when he grabs hold of the small ledge. He locates his next foothold, skilfully finds his balance and quickly clicks the next carabiner into the metal hook in the cliff face.

Depending on the weather, wind and mood, Sebastián takes his guests to different corners of the island. His favourite spots (see box) are not only athletically challenging in different ways, but also have impressive landscapes. Even just the journey through the Serra de Tramuntana takes your breath away: it passes by bright green fields where sheep and lambs gently graze. Gnarled olive trees alternate with large orange groves and majestic almond trees. The road offers a clear view of the picturesque Valldemossa, one of the most beautiful places on the island. In the distance, you can see the ‘Sant Bartomeu’ parish church and the walls of the ancient Carthusian monastery ‘Catuja de Jesús Nazareno’. But Sebastián drives on, bypasses the tourist destination, and steers his ŠKODA KODIAQ elegantly around the sometimes deep furrows in the road, on towards the coast.

But that’s not the case: Sebastián did not start climbing until he was 23. At that time, he moved to Madrid. Prior to that, he had lived with his family in Argentina, where he grew up in the tranquil town of Olavarría and almost became a professional softball player. “After school, I studied law in Buenos Aires,” he says, smiling whilst looking at his chalk-covered hands. Having completed a second degree in Spain, he was now able to work as a lawyer in both countries. However, all he completed were the mandatory internships. “I preferred to earn money through other people’s happiness instead of through their problems and misery.” Sebastián lived in Madrid and England, worked in Mallorca for five years as the sales manager for a carpentry workshop and sold windows. The biggest constant during these years was his growing enthusiasm for outdoor sports – be it canyoning, cliff diving or deep-water soloing. “It’s quite obvious that I love danger,” he says with a wide grin. His brown eyes sparkle. Bouldering and climbing have held him in their grasp ever since. The result: he and his good friend Adhara quit their jobs and went for broke.

As he drives along the winding roads from Sóller down towards Palma, Daft Punk blasts from the ŠKODA KODIAQ’s six speakers. Sebastián sings along loudly and drums on his knee with his hand. Next destination: Torre d’en Beu, a listed 16th-century watchtower on the south-east coast of Mallorca. The journey takes a good hour, past the capital city, through several villages and at the end along a dusty sand track towards the sea. Sebastián switches to all-wheel-drive mode and follows a medium-height natural stone wall towards the tower. A popular climbing and bouldering area can be found directly below it. The air tastes salty, the waves ring in your ears. Sebastián unpacks all of his equipment: ropes, harnesses and helmets for him and Adhara, as well as a crash pad – which alone would fill the boot of a small car. A crash pad is a mat required for bouldering – together with your partner, it is your only protection for this sport. Here it is more about technique; the rocks are a maximum of three metres high and there are plenty of them here. Over centuries, the sea and wind have moulded them into all shapes and sizes. Sebastian and Adhara unfold the crash pad together. Sebastián slips into his climbing shoes and begins climbing straight from the ground. Slowly, smoothly, one twist – and he is yet again hanging in the air two metres above the mat. They then switch roles. Sebastián shows his business partner, who has specialised more in mountain biking and water sports in their small company, a few tricks, whilst not letting her out of his sight.

He calls it a day in the late afternoon. Sebastián drives the KODIAQ towards Palma again. Time and again, he looks at the sky. But less to marvel at the sunset and more to get a close look at the cloud formation over the sea. And he nods happily: tomorrow it will probably be sunny again – perfect for the next area on his list.